Semuc Champey
Thursday 21st February
06.45: OH.MY.GOD. I just opened my eyes to the most breath taking view. I am at Utopia, just on the very edge of Semuc Champey, entirely surrounded by trees in the middle of the mountains, just so beautiful. I slept soundly, there was nobody else in this huge half of the dorm despite there being lots of people at dinner last night so it was a gloriously quiet night for sleeping. I was incredibly tired; amazing how sitting down for 8 hours in a bus can make you so exhausted. Though the drunk moron bashing around the night before really didn’t help, he ruined my last night of sleep in Flores, shouting and screaming and slamming doors; one of the many advantages of sharing a room with complete strangers! I can honestly say there was a part of me that hated him, he came in at 3.30am and didn’t settle down until 5.30. People began asking politely for him to be quiet which would work momentarily but then he was back out of bed like a jumping bean and off out wandering, slamming the door as left. This cycle continued with some added moments of silence, yelling and jibberish chat. The saving grace was the full moon still waiting for me in the sky at 6am. I went for a walk as I knew I had a long bus journey ahead, the sun was still asleep but the sky had begun to wake up. The moon hanging right there, smiling at me. It has a captivating magic in daylight. I sat next to the water, alone, concentrating on taking a top quality mental photograph of this very moment. As I glanced to my right I could see the sun peeking over the hills, I swear I nearly jumped up and shrieked, never before had I seen the moon out and the sun rise. Mesmerising.
The journey here on the minute bus was.... an experience. The roads are endless corners winding into each other, we inclined to immediately decline, the mountains roll on forever. My core muscled had a great workout holding me in my seat, there was absolutely no hope of a nap for me as I bagged the worst seat on the bus. I had the door next to me: great for leg room, but two people to my left and no head rest. I slumped right down in my chair at one point to use the back as a pillow but my bum ended up sliding off as we navigated the potholes so I gave up trying. I did, however, have wonderful company which changes everything when I am travelling alone. Sam had me laughing a lot, as per. I hope that we’ll stay in contact, i’d love to show him around at home. We’ve been joking about me being like a mum the whole time, a recurring theme when I am with new people. The view was also something to behold, i’ve never encountered such an endless amount of beauty. We passed through tiny villages with glorified (or not so much in some people’s eyes) sheds for houses, women wearing vibrant clothes carrying pots on their heads. It looks to me like they should have dinosaurs in their gardens. Today the sights are reminiscent of the Disney film Fantasia.
When we fiiiiinally arrived in Lanquin, 6.5hours later, a pick up truck was waiting to take me to the hostel. A totally loveable Kiwi, Frankie, hopped in too, we clicked almost immediately and it turns out she is also staying here. My first reaction to this hostel was ‘oh my god, I LOVE IT, I want to live here’ which is nothing new in my world, as those who know me well will agree, I fall in love with everything and everyone at first sight. A girl named Chrysta checked us in, she had some impressive dreads, we were offered home made chocolates as this hostel has a cacao plantation, I was sold. Sign me up. I am very happy I chose this place, the big open restaurant/common area has fairy lights intwined and the music playing is all to my taste. Super chilled. The arrival time was pretty serendipitous, a bell is rung as one of the staff shout ‘DINNER’ which reminded me of the gong at Granny Anne’s and the excitement of being the chosen one to whack it. I hope all of my grandparents are up there watching somewhere, i’d love to share this with them.
20.14: An absolute belter of a day. Frankie, I and our new found funny friend Kevin hiked to the pools at national park, Semuc Champey. The walk was undulating the entire way and so very hot even at 9.30am. The mountains are a constant backdrop, covered in green, vegetation all around us, the landscape is constantly boasting the wow factor. The walk to the front gate took us about 40 minutes in which time we all were a little rouge, we bought food from the very enthusiastic Guatemalan children who all stood a little too close for comfort. We paid 50q to get in which is equivalent to £5; so cheap. Climbed up what seemed like stairs made for giants, a mixture of huge rocks and questionable looking wooden stair cases to get to stupidly high viewing point. It was actually so beautiful and so hot that it looked like a computer game rather than real life! I looked like I had been in the shower wearing all of my clothes and the descent was not much of a help either, with many uphills. Mother nature having a laugh at us idiot humans again.
The crazy hike and high heat made diving into the pools heavenly. Crystal clear turquoise surrounded by lush green and jungle vines. The three of us make an amusing trio, I became mother of the group (again) as I came prepared with a towel, water shoes, sun cream, snacks and a dry bag. We spent so much of the day laughing, Kevin is hilarious, he is Canadian and boasts a (not quite accurate) British accent ‘I’ve got a bloody nose mate!’ We shared stories from our past relationships while the tiny fish nibbled at our legs and feet, quite bizarre. Exiting the pools was a challenge, slippery moss everywhere making me feel like an incompetent mermaid, as when Ariel uses her legs for the first time! We tubed back down the river which was exhilarating, terrifying and hilarious all at the same time. But butt cheeks hate me today though, my tale bone took a beating also. The river wasn’t quite as high as it should be so we grazed the rocks frequently. I was giggling for the duration of the 2 hour float back down to the hostel, it allowed us a cool new perspective too, the jungle looks impressive from that level. Another day full of ‘wow’s’.
I attended the free yoga class back at the hostel at 5pm, a slow, steady, concentrated class. Each pose was held for what felt like an eternity, so it was challenging in a whole new way for me. Dinner was a deep fried burrito with rice and salad. Topped off with a hot chocolate before bed. A bloody great day.
Friday 22nd February
06.13: I have woken up with nothing much on my mind and not much to write. The view here fills every space in my mind. So peaceful. The weather this morning is a stark difference to yesterday, foggy and a little cold.
12.40: I am having a home day today, used the outdoor gym here (what a treat, I wish these were more common in England.) I attempted to sunbathe but it is way too hot, there is no breeze today so I almost drowned in my own sweat. Grim. I miss people for the first time, not actually being at home but the people who are at home.
18.38: I accidentally ordered enough food for three people at lunch, so i’m having it again for dinner. The food is pretty expensive here and fairly average, though I guess we are in the middle of nowhere so it must cost them a little to get it all up here. I don’t like staying in places with no communal kitchen, I love to cook and I don’t like being waited on constantly. It feels more like a hotel here. I actually read my book today. I played guitar for ages, i’ve been working on a new song, letting it come to me in bits.
Saturday 23rd February
09.46: I woke up at 6, was out of bed at 06.15. The mornings here are wonderfully cool, the extra blanket on the beds were a subtle indicator of this. Sleeping in a huge room with no window means the sound of the river and the birds are my daily alarm. I discovered by accident on my way to pick up a yoga mat that the wifi conveniently stretches to that area of the hostel, meaning I no longer have to march up the steep hill to get to the little wifi pod, instead I climb a few steps to be back in touch with home. I called Frances this morning, so nice to speak to her. This is the most distances her and I have had since I went to America all those years ago, but we weren’t as close then. I also spoke to darling Ashleigh as it is almost her birthday. It evokes a funny feeling in me when I actually speak to people as opposed to text, gives me an uplifting feeling of missing home. If there is such a word for that, it escapes me now.
About 15.00: I am currently eating flat breads, humous and roasted peppers in the middle of another fairly homely day. I made full use of the jungle gym this morning, floated about in the river on some tubes with an English architect named Joe whom I met over dinner last night. He is away for a similar amount of time as I am, on a similar path. I walked around the grounds of this place, down every path possible, leading me through the cacao plantation and the orange meadow. For a leisurely stroll it was challenging as everywhere here is hilly, the views were never ending so the muscle burn was worth it. I took hundreds of photos of leaves and plants, so much inspiration for painting.
17.33: John Mayer is playing out in the restaurant, a huge smile spread across my face as it brings back great memories of summer days and dog sitting last year. Leading me to reflect, once again, on my pretty wicked life. I spent some time painting with water colours, the perfect meditation for me as I think of absolutely nothing else when I am drawing. I came up with a melody to this new song whilst I was atop the garden mountain so I’ll get to work on that next.
Sunday 24th February
06.28: Sunday: travel day. I am packed and ready to depart. Starting the day well with fruit, yoghurt and granola washed down with a (not so great) coffee. I had some not so happy dreams last night about being back in a work place I didn’t feel comfortable in, and people I no longer want to see waltzing back into my life. Very pleased when I opened my eyes to realise it was only a dream. Now for the ELEVEN HOUR BUS JOURNEY. I’ve heard it’s bumpy. To Lake Atitlan I go.