Tuesday 5th February
09.58: 1st morning waking up here in Caye Caulker (pronounce key corker.) It is funny how quickly I feel as though I know places, it feels as though I have been here for far longer than 24 hours. The second boat ride yesterday was much more comfortable than the first, I was sat inside for a start, it was a proper water taxi second time around. I was listening to music and feeling the quiet flutter of complete freedom; I think this is my most favourite feeling in life. Especially the travelling between destinations, the voyage into the unknown, thinking about who I might meet. As soon as I stepped off the boat and put my feet on the sand I knew exactly what Hannah and Charlotte had meant, this place is absolute bliss.
I came to drop off my bag and go back out to wander. Everybody smiles at you here, though that does seem like a running trend in this part of the world. It is brightly coloured and vibrant, street vendors everywhere, nobody is wearing shoes! The prices are a little high but that is to be expected for the scenery. I laid down on the concrete next to the water, I realise in writing this that it sounds odd and massively uncomfortable but it felt quiet the opposite. I used my massive t-shirt as a towel to lay on, caked myself in factor 50 and let my skin soak in some rays. I was beginning to drift off, reggae music as my lullaby, hearing the locals speak a mixture of English and Kriol, my mind getting lost in the fuzzy place between dream and reality.
I could feel that I was most likely over cooking so headed back to the hostel to eat my leftover food. Treated myself to a double egg sandwich, no sauce but seasoning this time, and a peanut butter roll. Winning. I made friends with a German girl named Rose, gave her a hair cut, loved it. I should make more of an effort to mention it now. I spent the afternoon sat in the common area but it is less social than I had hoped. I had a long conversation with an American man named Ryan. We talked about society’s norm, the travelling life and how being single for a really long time can make being in a relationship seem like too much hard work. He asked if i’d like to join him for dinner which turned out to be a great shout, probably the best meal I have had so far. I sat and played guitar for a little while as it got dark, a guy who introduced himself as ‘Fucker’ but in a German accent asked if he could play for a bit. I of course said yes whilst managing to conceal my amusement.
We walked to a seafood restaurant where I had my first lobster experience! I ordered a Caribbean lobster coconut curry with fried plantain, rice and beans, thoroughly enjoyed the food along with the company. The great thing about travelling alone is the array of conversation to be had with people you barely know. Post dinner, we walked down to the sports bar which was the only real drinking bar on the island, it was full of locals and there was some unusual drumming taking place, fascinating to watch. In between sets there speedy dancehall music was played, it felt like a speed far too fast for dancing. It was fun, in a weird sort of out of my comfort zone kind of way.
I wasn’t sure if I would want to run this morning because one rum punch turned into 4 gin and tonics but I still woke up at 7 without an alarm so on my trainers went and off I shot. I ran through the downtown area, though the imagery I saw was not that which you would equate with ‘downtown’. The buildings are each painted a vibrant tropical colour, shop owners sweeping the streets outside their doors, tourists having breakfast a an array of speciality cafes. Dogs freely roaming around the streets, street sellers setting up their stalls, the sun beaming down already at 07.30. I ran through and out the other side of town and ended up on a rustic beach path which lead me to the south point full of marsh land, lagoons, eggy smelling air - that is something a picture cannot convey. I saw lots of property for sale which sparked the ever dreamy idea if having a jungle/beach commune/hostel one day....
Running through unknown territory makes me feel the most alive and in tune with my body. I feel terrible now for all of the years I berated my body for not looking like a size 10 mtv music video babe. It works, I have all of my limbs, I wake up every day safe and alive, I hereby apologise to myself. It has taken me 31 years to truly love myself and what a journey it has been.
Today’s vague plan is to find the animal shelter and of course - spend some time working hard of that golden skin tone. And eat ice cream, ice cream is always on the agenda.
Wednesday 6th Feb
05.49: Alarm went off at 5 today. I am about to walk to the animal sanctuary to help out for the morning.
16.24: I should start chronologically but really I just want to write about Little Lucy immediately. Following on from where I left off, I did exactly what I had said I would; I lay in the sun, ate an ice cream and I swam in the turquoise water. I wandered about aimlessly yet with intention, I stumbled across the animal shelter and knew immediately that my meandering had purpose. I spent about an hour in there with Lucy on my lap, I don’t usually like small dogs but this tiny three month old chihuahua stole my heart, I have since watched her melt many others. I asked Kenny, the owner, if he needed any help to which he replied yes, I was overjoyed, this was exactly what I had been hoping to find. I left there practically skipping down the road, I ventured ‘downtown’ to see what they had in the way of fruit and snacks. I strolled into the yoga cafe ‘Namaste’ and was reminded of the free yoga classes I had been told about previously, which just so happened to start in half an hour. I sped back to the hostel to change out of beach clothes so that I could partake.
The yoga spot was on the roof terrace, ideal for sunset yoga, it was a moderately busy and really wonderful class. It felt so good to be doing yoga again, I had left it far too long. Continuing the good luck of the day I finished my evening off with delicious falafel for dinner and a very amusing stop at a juice shop to buy some fruit, I was served by the happiest woman I have ever met. I think I will carry her good vibe with me for the rest of my life. Upon returning ‘home’ I met two lovely Canadian boys, we had natural, easy flowing conversation before I put myself to bed. Such a beautiful day of happy coincidences.
I set my alarm for 5am, jumped out of bed, made a coffee, a peanut butter and peach jam bagel, cut some pineapple and melon for snacks and made an avocado bagel for lunch which will now be dinner. A guy just drifted past me as I am sat at the waters edge writing this on a speedboat with a rasta hat and a wig on and his dog on board. This place is hilarious. I took the tiny dogs out with Kenny as the sun was rising, truly breath taking, we fed, bathed, flea and worm treated them. I worked until about 12.30, a greatly enjoyable morning. Kenny is a sweet man, he told me he enjoyed my company and the longer I was there the more he shared with me about his life.
I spent some time looking up information online on how to get Lucy back home with me. For a good 6 hours she was all I thought about, I really fell for her. Kenny told me he wouldn’t let anyone else have her because he loved her so much, but I am special enough to be allowed her. Sounded a little like he could have been talking the talk, which he absolutely could have been, but it certainly felt genuine.
I am almost positive that Jack, one of the English guys just ran past me, which would mean all three of them are. I knew life would draw us back together! I have seen quite a few familiar faces, it is kind of cool that there is a well travelled road, I didn’t think I would like that but it is very convenient.
I drifted back to make a coffee, did some hand washing (the joy of clean clothes is something I don’t fully appreciate when I am at home) I spoke to my dad in the most disjointed of conversations, the delay was insane. Nice to hear his voice though. It is easy to forget about normal life out here. I am now sat patiently awaiting the sunset while eating an ice cream, watching people kite surf (what a fucking talent!)
Thursday 7th Feb
11.27: My alarm woke me up at 6am. I have to admit part of me (a lot of me) didn’t want to get up. I rolled myself out of bed and put on my running gear, I knew as soon as I was outside I would be pleased with myself. I went to eat with Ryan again, this time at a place named ‘Wish Willy’s’ which gave me great pleasure. It also left me singing ‘William’s wish wellingtons’ for the rest of the evening. I had a grilled fish curry, it was SO good. The jerk sauce was insane. The food here is amazing.
I checked out of Go Slow hostel because it was, to be blunt, boring as fuck. I walked two minutes around the corner and asked the guys at Bella’s if they had space for me, they have kindly (or so I currently think... I haven’t seen my bed yet) squeezed me into the staff room. The atmosphere is much more social and a few of my friends are there too. The guy who showed me around is half Belizean, half English, from Huddersfield. It is really funny hearing a northern accent on someone out here. He is beautiful. All of the people that work there are. I am sat soaking up the sun at the split again, what a lovely life I lead.
I went for a longer run this morning, clocked up six miles, was chased by a dog which made my adrenaline spike so massively I felt a bit sick. All is fine though. I emailed uncle Mike to let him know about my blog as I feel this is something all of the Barber family would appreciate (hello to any of you if you are reading, much love) I am still thinking about Little Lucy, I really hope I can take her home.
14.01: I felt like I was baking a little too much and my stomach began to lead me back to make some lunch. I scrambled some eggs with tomatoes, spread my perfectly green and ripe avo on a bagel, simple and so delicious. I have now been informed that Northern boy is called Zayne, he also has a tiny guitar, we’ve been jamming together. I am sat on the dock of the bay playing guitar and watching the wildlife while others on the table at the front are drinking rum. It is a different type of party hostel to that which I had imagined.... At this current point anyway! I can see fish, tiny ones, sword nosed ones, massive, beefy ones. Birds squawking, pelicans chilling in the trees, a massive iguana lurking in the twigs next to me. I could quite happily sit here all afternoon.
Sunday 10th Feb
11.00: Bella’s has been my favourite hostel so far, the people are so welcoming, they feel like family. Everybody looks out for each other, they like to cook and feed us. On Friday night a lot rum was consumed. I remember searching for my phone far and wide before I went to bed, realising it had been plugged in up in the kitchen the entire time. Within half an hour of being up on Saturday, at 11am (I slept in until 10.30... unheard of... bloody rum) the guys took us all out to the other side of the split to hang out and have a bbq for the day, cook the fish that was to be caught. For some context here the island was split in two by a hurricane in the 60’s, to get to the less busy side you have to take a boat or swim. It truly felt like a magical day, I made new friends with people who came along too, drinking beer, listening to music and eating fresh fish surrounded by palm trees. I am still thinking about Lucy. Two days away from her has done me no justice, she is really lodged in my heart.
Monday 11th Feb
10.20: Sunday was a slow day, I slept so awfully the night prior that I didn’t feel like doing much. It rained intermittently so I couldn’t get much sun time in but today I feel will be different. Marcos, one of the guys from the hostel, took me out on a boat at night time, it was so tranquil. The moon was glowing, the stars twinkling away, being out on the water in the dark felt really special. He introduced me to the rasta man who lives just at the waters edge on the other side of the split, they said I would be welcome there for dinner any time. His wife is a jewellery maker so we were exchanging art tips. People really are so lovely here. I was massacred by mosquitos. Not fun. I think tomorrow I will move on, it seems a few people are, I just need to decide where to.
Tuesday 12th Feb
09.07: I just squared off my money and paid for one more night. ‘One more night’ is the motto here because people never want to leave. I ‘slept in’ this morning until 06.10, I wanted to get up early to watch the sun rise but I was way too sleepy to rise any earlier. I went to see Kenny, Lucy and the rest of the animal pack straight away. I am so keen to find out from his vet about vaccination costs and how quickly we can get her done. I’ve sent countless emails to animal agencies and travel services to find out about taking her back with me at the end of my trip. I slept like a log last night, finally. The bed is pretty uncomfortable here! I will sit with my crystal tonight and think about Lucy and where to go next.
13.50: One of the pet travel sights replied with all of the facts, Lucy has to come back as cargo in the hold and not up in the cabin with me so I have decided to leave her where she is. A sad decision, but she has a lovely life by the beach here and I don’t want to put her through all of that stress. Made myself a breakfast of champions today, now I am tanning again.